Have a woodworking or carpentry question?

A froe (pronounced frow) is a specialized woodworking tool. It is also called a shake axe or paling knife. It is used to split wood along the grain by hammering its blade into the end of a piece of wood and then twisting the blade to create a clean split. Once the tool of choice for homesteaders and farmers, it is often used for making shingles, fence posts, or splitting planks from logs. Back in the day, it was also used in the construction of dwellings and furniture.

Cherry is NOT a good wood for outdoor use. You need something that holds up to UV rays, water and bugs + does not leach sap – Cypress, teak, cedar, and redwood are your best choices for natural finishes. Yellow pine can be used if it is primed and painted.

It is called a torsion box.

There are several of videos on the web demonstrating this lightweight and very strong construction technique.

Two keys to success: They are best used with a drill press — but you can still use a hand drill. You must “pump” the bit. Drill a little than bring the bit back up the hole, then back down to drilling position. This action is necessary to clear the wood chips from the hole. You’ll need to blow the chips away as well so that they don’t slip back into the hole.

I don’t think it is technique. I suspect the product you used was outdated. Yes, glues and finishes have an expiration date. The clock usually doesn’t start ticking until you open it and let the air in – but it will definitely go bad. Wipe-on poly should flow like oil, not like syrup, which based on your description, sounds like what you experienced. If any finishing product is cloudy and pours slowly, properly dispose of it and buy fresh.

Speed is usually an issue. We usually recommend cutting these bits at a speed somewhere between 16,000 and 18,000 RPM. The chip out most likely is being caused by running against the grain instead of with it. You’ll need to read the grain lines on the face of the stock and determine which direction will allow you to go with the grain instead of against it.

For exterior woodwork, I like their a marine-grade Urethane. First thing is remove the old coating (shellac, lacquer or varnish). After you have the door cleaned-up and sanded (the grain was raised during the stripping process) apply multiple coats if a Boiled Linseed finish — see the container for ‘cutting’ instruction. You could stop at this point but you’d be reapplying the oil frequently. Adding a urethane topcoat will seal the wood and protect it from UV light.
 

• Let the oil dry per manufacturer’s instructions.
• Lightly scuff sand the door with 220-grit sandpaper.
• Remove sanding dust using a soft, lint-free cloth dampened with pure mineral spirits. Let mineral spirits evaporate then vacuum and wipe down with fresh tack cloth.
• Apply 1-3 thin coats of urethane following the label instructions

Notes:

1. Assume the old finish contains lead. Use appropriate safety measures.
2. It will take about 30 days for the urethane to fully cure to a hard finish.

Cypress is always a good choice for outdoor projects – it offers good stability and excellent decay resistance. It’s also reasonably easy to work with although it tends to be quite “knotty” (It is even referred to as Gopher Wood). You will need to take extra care when sawing, jointing, or routing to prevent chip-out on end-grain.
 
No special glue is required. Basic rule of thumb – outdoor use requires exterior grade glue. I prefer polyurethane glues for exterior work.
 
“Titebond” also makes a less expensive wood glue and is great for all uses. It is their Titebond™ III Ultimate Wood Glue.
 
Tip: Take care when gluing — try not to get it on areas that are to be finished, Cypress does “show” glue stains more than some other varieties wood. Sometimes I even treat glue just like paint and mask off areas that I don’t want the glue.

Setting the blades is more hazardous than difficult, since the blades can slice your fingers while handling them. And that’s where a jig comes into play. You must set all blades the same height – roughly 1/8″ . The actual height is not as important as getting them all the same – some planers are 1/8″, a few are e 3/16″. You could fabricate a jig yourself. The purpose of the jig is to set the blade height at 1/8″ and hold the blade in place (without cutting your fingers off) until you can tighten the set screws down. The best option however is to buy a jig. They are magnetic blocks that set the blade height and hold the blade in position. For a 12″ planer, use a mini Planer Pal and for larger planers — standard size jig.

This isn’t really in our area of expertise (identifying insects). That said, you can hire a pesticide person to gas the wood with methyl bromide or, you can kiln dry it with a finishing temperature of 160 degrees for a few hours.

If the wood will fit in an oven, you can do the drying at home. Just place it in the oven and then set is at 170 (since most ovens only go down to 170). Keep it in there for 3 hours. That should kill the little critters. If not check your area to see where the folks who cut down timber take their wood to be kiln-dried and have them do it for you. I hope they (the worms) were creative and give your piece some character… Good luck!

Without looking over your shoulder it’s hard to tell. That said, the most common reasons that come to mind are: a dull blade trying to make too tight of a turn, too quickly trying to cut green or wet wood, incorrect blade for the cut or material to be cut, improper tension set on the blade, or trying to cut faster that the wood will allow. When all else fails, read the owner’s manual that came with your saw.